Kenilworth
Castle:
The castle ruins have been recently restored, featuring
newly installed walkways offering staggering views of the
Warwickshire countryside. Initially built under influence of King
Henry I, the castle was gifted and eventually retaken by King Henry
III in what is possibly the longest siege in English history. The
castle then became a residence for Lancastrian kings, up through
Elizabeth I gifting the castle and lands to Robert Dudley; a favorite
courtier of hers. After Dudley became Earl of Leichester, many
elaborate improvements to the castle were initiated, as Dudley used
the castle as a staging ground for his failed campaign to woo the
Virgin Queen. Sadly, during the Parliamentary revolution, Cromwell's
thugs tore down much of the castle's structure to prevent enemies
seizing the fort. The castle then fell into disrepair, however, today
the grounds can be enjoyed as an enchanting grand ruin.
The
castle features a marvelous working Tudor garden (restored through
contemporary illustrations and accounts), museum exhibits, and guided
tours. However, the best times I had were discovering the winding
stair leading to the ruined ramparts, and wandering an old cellar
with excellent acoustics and an ominous feeling about the damp place.
Also of interest were the many inscriptions carved into the castle
stone, the earliest date I spotted being 1753 by John Goodall.
Stratford-upon-Avon:
To be perfectly honest, I was quite impressed with this quaint little
Warwichshire village. I had been dreading the level of commercialism
with which (I assumed) the namesake of Shakespeare would be lavishly
spread across the town, and apart from the Shakespeare
Center/Birthplace, this was not the case. I found the Shakespeare
monument very tasteful, and the biggest bastardization of the
Shakespeare theme was in the names of B&B's, which didn't offend
or bother me to any great extent. The town itself was lovely, being
manageable within the time we were allotted. I will remember my first
visit to the town from sitting by the Avon under a willow tree, watching the in-numerous
swans float past as the sun set.
The
evenings consisted of performances from the Royal Shakespeare Theatre
followed by dinner at the dual-named Black Swan/Dirty Duck. The
second night, actor Alex Hassel (who had played Henry V that evening)
joined us for an informal question session. I was delighted when
during his talk, Alex spoke of Prince Hals transition to Henry V in
terms of Campbell's “Hero's Journey”: dubbing Sir John Falstaff
as the mentor who lends Hal the valuable skill of role playing. Our
trip also toured the Shakespeare properties; including Trinity Church
(hosting Shakespeare's grave), Anne Hathaway's Cottage (romantically themed), and Mary Arden's Farm (a working organic Elizabethan farm).
Shakespeare's birthplace was a little tacky with a sprawling gift
shop and droves of Japanese tourists. I was more enthralled by
portrait of Shakespeare drawn (and signed) by Ralph Steadman hanging
in the lobby than I was to walk through a cramped room Shakespeare
might have been born in.
Blenheim
Palace:
This massive and rich palace was the birthplace of
Winston Churchill. The palace interior overflows with history and
wealth; further featuring a chapel and rotating modern art exhibit
throughout the building. Although the library was breathtaking,
estates of this stature are otherwise of no interest to me as the
expression of wealth through beauty becomes rather ridiculous (if not
disgusting) to me in its own over-indulgence. Born to a different
class of society was I.
This
being said, the grounds of the palace featured gardens and ponds
scattered with Greek statues, a butterfly house, a secret garden, and
the world's second largest hedge maze. So I got lost trying to find
the hedge maze (finding myself instead in the secret garden), and had
to retrace my steps before getting lost inside said hedge maze. Good
fun. The grounds were designed by Lancelot “Capability” Brown in
romantic style; resisting the mundane order for controlled and
carefully considered chaos. Though rich furnishings are not of
interest to me, there exists at Blenheim Palace plenty of
architecture, statues, gardens, grounds, and views to be admired.
British Library:
The
British Library in St. Parncras is the largest public 20th
century building in the UK; a marvel in its own right. Furthermore,
they hold every publication from the United Kingdom and Ireland, over
150 million items expanding with about 3 million more volumes every
year. Now imagine this sprawling building with every available seat
in reading rooms and cafes occupied by dynamic groups of students,
and welcome to the British Library.
Of
especial note within the Library's ranging exhibits is the “Treasures
of the British Library” room. The treasures featured in this room
include a baffling range. Religious texts include ancient editions
from Hinduism, Christianity, Buddhism, and Islam in a range of
languages. Historical documents like the Magna Carta, letters
from Elizabeth I, correspondences from Karl Marx, and sections of
Leonardo DaVinci's notebooks are on display. There is the largest, old celestial
globe known to Britain and fragments of bone on which are inscribed
the most early known forms of Chinese characters. Music sheets
featuring hand written compositions from Bach, Handel, Mozart, and
Beethoven. Of course, the library's treasure collection features an
impressive array of manuscripts including W. H. Auden, T. S. Elliot,
Oscar Wilde, Charlotte Bronte, and Jane Austen's writing desk. In
view of these treasures, there is slight irony that the display
receiving the most attention from visitors is the scribbles of John
Lennon and Paul McCartney; rough drafts of future Beatles songs.
While these deserve both tourist attention and British pride, that
Lennon's scribbling draft of “Hard Day's Night” on the back of
his son's birthday card should receive more attention than the Magna
Carta or the earliest known translations of the Bible, lends an
odd perspective to an exhibit of many treasures. The exhibit also
features a somewhat lacking Shakespeare display, though the library
does hold many original quartos (both 'good' and 'bad'), but not
currently on display.
Royal Shakespeare Company; Hecuba
Playwright Marina Carr's adaptation of Euripedes' classic legend Hecuba inventively re-imagines the post-war horrors of the fall of Troy. The story opens with Troys defeat, as queen Hecuba sits among the corpses of her husband and sons. Hecuba then leads her two remaining daughters as prisoners of war to charismatic Agamemnon, as her final small son is executed. After the Greek army demands another sacrifice to move the winds, Hecuba's daughter Polyxena is slaughtered as sacrifice. The story ends with Hecuba's family in complete ruins, as the Greek army sails home to begin the Oresteia.
Carr's delivery of the play is as innovative as her deviations from the original plot. The dialogue featured endless soliloquies and inner thoughts; revealing the damaged psychologies of the characters. The RSC's production was showcased on a mirrored set, with the production features minimal. Though there was a live band and a few props, the focus of the show was on the text itself and the actors embodiment of the language. An entertaining and troubling tragedy, Hecuba in full glory and shame was brought to life (and death) by the Royal Shakespeare Company. The greatest tragedy of the night was the many empty seats (perhaps half the house or more) on a Friday night: though the plays themes made the piece a perfect pick for the RSC season, the town and tourists appeared un-enthralled by this re-envisioning of infamous Greek tragedy.
Royal Shakespeare Company; Henry V
One of Shakespeare's most beloved history plays, Henry V follows the exploits of Henry Monmouth, now King Henry V, in his famous military campaign through France. This production will be rebooted for a celebration marking the 400-year-anniversary of Shakespeare's death. The celebration, titled "King and Country" will feature the history plays in chronological order from Richard II through Henry V, detailing the tumultuous time immediately prior to the War of the Roses.
Now, as the first professional production of Henry V I've ever seen, the delivery of this show was everything I hoped for and expected. The cutting of the script did not sacrifice much text in the shows three hour run-time, and the staging was fairly classical with a few unique features to make the production stand apart. The famous Chorus was specifically modeled to be very common or laymen in style and dress. Also drawing from the Chorus' speech on the audience fleshing out the text with their own imaginations: the set was minimal and their were no flashy fight scenes. However, the kings were decked in fabulous period costumes. Ultimately, the production balanced a combination of the dramatic and the humorous, delivering a Henry V that can appease both those with classical or more modern tastes in Shakespeare.
Back within the city of London, without guidance for the weekend.
Stagnancy and Boredom are the battlefields fought with free museums and cheap coffee.
We few, we happy few. Alone and infinite.
"History of Kenilworth Castle." Kenilworth Castle and English Garden. English Heritage. Web. 10 Oct. 2015.
"Facts and Figures." About Us. The British Library Board. Web. 10 Oct. 2015.
“almost nothing important that ever happens to you happens because you engineer it. Destiny has no beeper; destiny always leans trenchcoated out of an alley with some sort of 'psst' that you usually can't even hear because you're in such a rush to or from something important you've tried to engineer. ”
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